We've been to most of the countries in the Gulf region now--Oman, UAE, Bahrain and Kuwait, although not Qatar and Saudi Arabia--and seen them in relatively quick succession.
Some thoughts:
- Each country has in the second part of the twentieth century experienced an unprecedented windfall in the way of oil revenues and used them to build itself up into a modern (even ultra-modern) nation, from, relatively speaking, the desert backwater that presumably each was fifty years ago. (Oman's an outlier--a bit more below.)
- To see the Gulf states properly, you need a car. Car rentals can be very affordable, and of course gas is cheap. Traffic around Dubai is some of the worst we've experienced. The Gulf states all have modern roads, and are building many more at a rapid pace. They seem to love roundabouts, like some countries in Europe, and hate overpasses. Roundabouts do offer some opportunity for U-turns, but the lack of overpasses means that you're often stuck going in the wrong direction (especially if you're a tourist who doesn't know directions and makes a wrong turn), for what can be a seemingly endless desert block. Build some overpasses!
- The Gulf is more traditional than many other corners of the world. Men almost uniformly wear traditional dress (dishdasha and keffiyeh (or embroidered hat in the case of Oman)) and women are largley dressed in full black robes, and often burqas. Gender distinctions are great. In some countries, such as Oman, it's actually somewhat uncommon (outside malls) to see women at all--they just don't participate to a full extent in public life. Even restaurants are segregated--men-only seating and "family" seating for mixed gender groups. In Saudi Arabia, as in Iran, many rules are enshrined in law; I believe that in all the other countries, it is more a matter of custom.
- It's not quite clear how religious the people in the Gulf are--given the high education levels it would not be surprisingly to find a fairly secular society underneath it all--but the locals are uniformly Muslim on paper. The Gulf is not Syria or Iraq, or even Iran, which have historically seen the movement of many peoples and faiths, with various minority groups as historical remnants. (Oman is a bit of an exception ethnically in that there are black Omanis--see below.)
- The most striking thing about the Gulf is the number of non-Arabs who live and work there (as much as 90% of the population, in Dubai). Of course, these people come from various backgrounds, from wealthy Westerners who are compensated very well for coming to work so far from home, to South Asians who in what must be desperation to find work take jobs that offer often horrible working conditions and do not pay very well to boot (most famously in the construction industry, but elsewhere as well). The phenomenon of millions of people traveling thousands of miles in search of work is one that deserves a separate post, which I hope to put together at a later date.
Perhaps a bit surprising is how the countries differ from one another. The Gulf was ruled by various tribal leaders, most of whom in the twentieth century developed quasi-colonial relationships with the United Kingdom and then formed separate nation-states. The UAE, even today, is a federation of seven sheikdoms. Despite what must have been fairly similar histories (with the exception of Oman), the Gulf states have become somewhat distinct in the recent past. Some country-specific thoughts:
- Most famously, Dubai has become a center of commerce. With relatively limited oil reserves, Dubai has successfully leveraged its commercial history and location to become, truly, the hub city of the Middle East. It is home to the region's biggest and best airline (Emirates) and the world's most ambitious building projects (such as the manmade islands of the Palms and the World and the world's tallest building, the Burj Dubai). I have been told by Arabs that, outside of Lebanon and Egypt, which are the centers of the Arab music and film industries, respectively, Dubai is the center of Arab media and popular culture, as well as technology.
- Bahrain is fairly multicultural. From what we understand, Bahraini law allows overseas workers to gain residence/citizenship more easily than other Gulf countries (in some it is simply not possible no matter how long one stays), and so Bahrain has longer-term non-Arab residents. We saw a Christian church (largely for the Filipino population) in downtown Bahrain, and there are good whole-in-the-wall type Thai restaurants as well. Even the Arab Bahrainis have a slightly more exotic look, perhaps from Bahrain's long history as a port. Bahrain is known for banking, but is also trying to attract tourists, with free-flowing alcohol and a Formula One racetrack. A bit depressingly, Bahrain seems to be a center of prostitution, with Saudis driving over in new SUVs by the hundreds (Bahrain is an island, but a very long causeway connects it to Saudi Arabia) to drink and fornicate. Central Bahrain is filled with cheapish hotels featuring all kinds of evening entertainment.
- Kuwait, as described in a recent New York Times article, does not seem to be experiencing a great boom in investment as other parts of the Gulf, and parts of its downtown lie in ruins (still from the 1990-91 war??). It is of course just as rich or richer than its neighbors, but for whatever reason its general economy seems to be stagnating. Overseas workers we spoke to in Kuwait said that it is a horrible place to work, one woman saying that risk of sexual harassment/rape was ever present, including from the police. She explained further that her 12 year old son was in the Philippines and unwilling to return to Kuwait saying, "What I am going to do there? It is like a prison". We also heard that other Gulf Arabs think ill of Kuwait. Although Kuwait started offering tourist visas recently, basic efforts to develop tourism seem lacking--the windows of the landmark Kuwait Towers are dirty, and ruins are visible nearby. One interesting, arguably more positive point: We are told that Kuwaiti society relaxed considerably after the war--one overseas worker mentioned that he thought it would be like Saudi Arabia when he first came, and was pleasantly surprised to find that standards of dress and behavior are surprisingly liberal.
- Oman still feels like a backwater compared to the other countries, although Oman most of all has a history of contact with the rest of the world, including especially in the nineteenth century, when it had a sort of small empire, including the island of Zanzibar. From its African history, Oman has a local black population, who seem to be totally integrated into Omani society. There are relatively fewer overseas workers in Oman, and one sees more locals holding regular jobs. Oman seems to be very well governed by its Sultan, and in our travels we have found Omanis uncommonly warm and gentle, with class and charm at times lacking in some of the other Gulf countries.
May 7, 2008
May 4, 2008
Personality Cults
In the most common pose, outside Hamidiyya Souk in Old Damascus
More full post to come, time permitting, but I thought I would share with you some of the many portraits of Bashar and Hafez al-Assad (respectively, the current present and his deceased father and predecessor) that are all over Syria. Some of these, in public places, are clearly put there by the administration, but many (such as Bashar portraits in many shops and one Bashar family portrait we saw in a car) seem spontaneous and personal. One cynic told us that Syrians would wear underwear with Assad on it. All of the Syrians we spoke with on the subject seemed genuinely to like the Assads, even if they did not have warm feelings for the Syrian government overall. And, if you think about Syria as a monarchy, somehow it's less strange that so many pictures of the leader would be plastered all over the place.
I think there is a focus on the persons of the Assads in Syria in large part because Syria as a state, like most others in the Middle East, is a creation of the West (in Syria's case, Britain and France drew its boundaries). Without a discrete, unifying history or culture to distinguish itself from its neighbors, a country needs to define itself in other ways, and one of those is by a strong leader.
Father, in sight of the historic Hejaz railway station, Damascus
Son, at Lattakia railway station
At the Lebanese border
With Nasrallah of Hezbollah and Ahmedinejad of Iran, advertising a fast food shop in Old Damascus
More full post to come, time permitting, but I thought I would share with you some of the many portraits of Bashar and Hafez al-Assad (respectively, the current present and his deceased father and predecessor) that are all over Syria. Some of these, in public places, are clearly put there by the administration, but many (such as Bashar portraits in many shops and one Bashar family portrait we saw in a car) seem spontaneous and personal. One cynic told us that Syrians would wear underwear with Assad on it. All of the Syrians we spoke with on the subject seemed genuinely to like the Assads, even if they did not have warm feelings for the Syrian government overall. And, if you think about Syria as a monarchy, somehow it's less strange that so many pictures of the leader would be plastered all over the place.
I think there is a focus on the persons of the Assads in Syria in large part because Syria as a state, like most others in the Middle East, is a creation of the West (in Syria's case, Britain and France drew its boundaries). Without a discrete, unifying history or culture to distinguish itself from its neighbors, a country needs to define itself in other ways, and one of those is by a strong leader.
Father, in sight of the historic Hejaz railway station, Damascus
Son, at Lattakia railway station
At the Lebanese border
With Nasrallah of Hezbollah and Ahmedinejad of Iran, advertising a fast food shop in Old Damascus
May 3, 2008
Golan Heights
Another interesting thing about traveling is seeing places, right before you in person, that you've heard about, either in books or on the news. Today, we went to the Roman-era ruin of Umm Qais/Gerada. The ruins themselves are not particularly compelling relative to other sites in the region and unlikely to impress, but the hill in Jordan on which they are located has a good view of Golan Heights, rising over the Sea of Galilee.
The Sea of Galilee (of biblical fame) is located entirely in Israel, but the Golan Heights rising above it on the east is technically a part of Syria, although it was captured by Israel during the Six-Day War in 1967. In 1981, it was formally annexed by Israel, and the disputed territory would be a key point in any peace negotiations between Israel and Syria. There isn't much in the Golan Heights, but Israel considers them a high ground over its own territory that is important to its security. [We recall having a conversation with a Chinese woman who argued that Tibet was essential to China for the same reason--topography still matters.]
May 2, 2008
A Syria Itinerary
We love Syria. There is so much to see, the people are incredibly friendly, food is good, it is safe and everything is quite affordable. In all, we would say it is one of our favorite travel destinations so far. So let's say you're coming to Syria for a couple weeks (and you should). Here's how you could spend your time.
1 - Damascus
2 - Damascus
3 - Damascus
4 - daytrip to Baalbek, Lebanon (not Syria, I know--be sure to have a re-entry visa)
5 - get an early start and travel to Apamea; sleep at Krak des Chevaliers (Hotel Baibars--what a view!)
6 - tour Krak; travel to Aleppo (a few hours)
7 - Aleppo
8 - choose: 1) Dead Cities (Jeradeh, Dana, Bara and Serjilla) or 2) St. Simeon and Deir Samaan
9 - Aleppo
10 - travel to Palmyra (much of day), catch sunset
11 - Palmyra
12 - travel to Damascus (a few hours)
13 - daytrip to Shahba and Bosra
14 - Damascus
1 - Damascus
2 - Damascus
3 - Damascus
4 - daytrip to Baalbek, Lebanon (not Syria, I know--be sure to have a re-entry visa)
5 - get an early start and travel to Apamea; sleep at Krak des Chevaliers (Hotel Baibars--what a view!)
6 - tour Krak; travel to Aleppo (a few hours)
7 - Aleppo
8 - choose: 1) Dead Cities (Jeradeh, Dana, Bara and Serjilla) or 2) St. Simeon and Deir Samaan
9 - Aleppo
10 - travel to Palmyra (much of day), catch sunset
11 - Palmyra
12 - travel to Damascus (a few hours)
13 - daytrip to Shahba and Bosra
14 - Damascus
Roman Ruins
More full post to come, time permitting, but the most interesting thing to me, perhaps, about the greatest Roman-era ruins that we visited in Syria and Lebanon, Apamea, Palmyra, Baalbek and Bosra, aside perhaps from the sheer impressiveness of Baalbek, is how, while the structures date primarily from Roman imperial times, the cities represent so many different ethnicities and cultures, not only in the people who must have lived or worshipped there but in the traditions that are represented in the art and architecture. These places are Roman, yes, in that they were from the Roman period and primarily in the Roman style, but certainly not Roman in many other senses.
Apamea
Apamea was founded by the Seleucids (heirs to Alexander the Great) in the 3rd century BC. The Romans conquered in 64 BC and the city was largely rebuilt after an earthquake in 115. Apamea remained an important city in Byzantine times, until it was sacked by the Persians in the sixth and seventh centuries, and then taken by the Arabs.
Unusual columns, reminiscent of baroque! Note the pedestals for the placement of statues, an unclassical feature.
Syrian Roman-era cities are noted for their long collonaded streets, of which Apamea's is perhaps the most impressive.
Inscription in Greek, the primary language of the eastern Roman Empire.
Mosaic from Apamea, showing Socrates
Going back to my Scams post of 3.13, a favorite around ruins all over the world--a man who sells "ancient" coins
Note the ruts in the Roman street
Palmyra
Palmyra was an important oasis as long ago as the third millennium BC, and was partially integrated into the Roman Empire in the first century AD. Rising to great prosperity as a stop in the trade between the Mediterranean and the East (India, China, etc.), Palmyra played a role in Rome's campaigns against Sassanian Persia in the 3rd century AD. Recognizing Palmyra's importance, and with newfound strength, then Queen Zenobia began to challenge the Roman Empire itself and was defeated in 274, when she was taken to Rome. Palmyra was won by the Arabs in the seventh century.
Overview of the site, from nearby Arab-era castle. Note the collonaded streets. The Temple of Bel is in the upper left corner.
Temple of Bel. Bel is a Semitic god, and the temple structure is similar to Semitic traditions going back to the temple at Amrit (cf. post of 4.15).
Inside the cella, or central shrine, at the Temple of Bel
Funerary towers, also within the Semitic tradition
Typical Palmyrene funerary busts. The style derives from the Hellenistic, following the conquest of the area by Alexander the Great in the 4th century BC.
Bilingual inscription in Palmyrene (related to Aramaic) and Greek. Most inscriptions in Palmyra are bilingual or in Palmyrene only.
Baalbek (Heliopolis)
Baalbek was the site of a Phoenician temple to Baal, the Sun God, as early as 2000 BC. In Roman times, Baal was worshipped at Baalbek/Heliopolis as Heliopolitan Jupiter, and great constructions were added in the first century by the Roman Emperors.
The great court, in the tradition of other Semitic temples
Note on lower right the Latin inscription to Heliopolitan Jupiter
Look at the size of those stones!
The astonishing Temple of Bacchus
Temple of Bacchus detail, looking up
Inside the cella of the Temple of Bacchus
Snows of Lebanon
Bosra
Bosra, a city occupied since ancient times, was in the latter part of the first century AD the capital of the Nabataean kingdom (most famous for Petra), until ruled directly by Rome beginning in the second century. It is most famous for its second century theater, but also is said by legend to have been traveled by Mohammed, who met with a Nestorian Christian monk who educated Mohammed on Christianity and recognized Mohammed as a prophet.
Bosra's Nabatean Arch
No camels in Italy!
Theater in full
Apamea
Apamea was founded by the Seleucids (heirs to Alexander the Great) in the 3rd century BC. The Romans conquered in 64 BC and the city was largely rebuilt after an earthquake in 115. Apamea remained an important city in Byzantine times, until it was sacked by the Persians in the sixth and seventh centuries, and then taken by the Arabs.
Unusual columns, reminiscent of baroque! Note the pedestals for the placement of statues, an unclassical feature.
Syrian Roman-era cities are noted for their long collonaded streets, of which Apamea's is perhaps the most impressive.
Inscription in Greek, the primary language of the eastern Roman Empire.
Mosaic from Apamea, showing Socrates
Going back to my Scams post of 3.13, a favorite around ruins all over the world--a man who sells "ancient" coins
Note the ruts in the Roman street
Palmyra
Palmyra was an important oasis as long ago as the third millennium BC, and was partially integrated into the Roman Empire in the first century AD. Rising to great prosperity as a stop in the trade between the Mediterranean and the East (India, China, etc.), Palmyra played a role in Rome's campaigns against Sassanian Persia in the 3rd century AD. Recognizing Palmyra's importance, and with newfound strength, then Queen Zenobia began to challenge the Roman Empire itself and was defeated in 274, when she was taken to Rome. Palmyra was won by the Arabs in the seventh century.
Overview of the site, from nearby Arab-era castle. Note the collonaded streets. The Temple of Bel is in the upper left corner.
Temple of Bel. Bel is a Semitic god, and the temple structure is similar to Semitic traditions going back to the temple at Amrit (cf. post of 4.15).
Inside the cella, or central shrine, at the Temple of Bel
Funerary towers, also within the Semitic tradition
Typical Palmyrene funerary busts. The style derives from the Hellenistic, following the conquest of the area by Alexander the Great in the 4th century BC.
Bilingual inscription in Palmyrene (related to Aramaic) and Greek. Most inscriptions in Palmyra are bilingual or in Palmyrene only.
Baalbek (Heliopolis)
Baalbek was the site of a Phoenician temple to Baal, the Sun God, as early as 2000 BC. In Roman times, Baal was worshipped at Baalbek/Heliopolis as Heliopolitan Jupiter, and great constructions were added in the first century by the Roman Emperors.
The great court, in the tradition of other Semitic temples
Note on lower right the Latin inscription to Heliopolitan Jupiter
Look at the size of those stones!
The astonishing Temple of Bacchus
Temple of Bacchus detail, looking up
Inside the cella of the Temple of Bacchus
Snows of Lebanon
Bosra
Bosra, a city occupied since ancient times, was in the latter part of the first century AD the capital of the Nabataean kingdom (most famous for Petra), until ruled directly by Rome beginning in the second century. It is most famous for its second century theater, but also is said by legend to have been traveled by Mohammed, who met with a Nestorian Christian monk who educated Mohammed on Christianity and recognized Mohammed as a prophet.
Bosra's Nabatean Arch
No camels in Italy!
Theater in full
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