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History of Iran: Sassanids

This is part of a series of an overview of Iranian history–please refer to my post of 5.10.

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With no clear successor to Alexander the Great following his early death, now Iran became part of a dynasty founded by one of his generals, Seleucus. Around 250 BC, the Seleucid empire was largely conquered by the Parthians (of Central Asian Turkic origin). Parthian rule of now Iran, characterized in part by a rivalry with Rome, lasted from 250 BC to 224 AD. A brief post on the Seleucids and Parthians perhaps to come.

The Sassanid dynasty was founded in 226 AD, when Ardeshir defeated the Parthian Emperor Artabanus IV.

A bas relief, showing the victory of Ardeshir over Artabanus IV. On the right is an anthropomophized Ahura Mazda, the god of Zoroastrianism, handing a ring of royal authority to Ardeshir. Under Ardeshir’s horse is Artabanus, while the God of Evil lies under Ahura Mazda’s horse.

Ruins of Gur, the first capital of the Sassanids, located about an hour and a half southwest of Shiraz

Ardeshir’s palace. This building is notable in particular for its great domes, said to be the first to be built over a square base by use of the squinch.

Zoroastrianism became an orthodox state religion under the Sassanids, led largely by the priest Kartir, who served six different Sassanid emperors over a period of fifty years. The Sassanid Empire practiced a form of Zoroastrianism that is said to have been contaminated by Mithraism, another local faith. Also, gone was the religious tolerance of the Achaemenids–at times, violence toward those of other religions (especially Christians, who were seen as favorably disposed to the Christian Byzantine Empire) was promoted by the state. In one inscription, Kartir speaks proudly of his destruction of the temples of Jews, Buddhists, Christians, Hindus and Greeks throughout the Sassanid Empire. It has been suggested that the decline of Zoroastrianism was due in part to its close association with the Sassanid state. [Post on Zoroastrianism to come.]

A water, or Anahita, temple at the city of Bishapur. When used, the central courtyard would have been flooded along with channels that run around an interior perimeter within the walls, on the other side of the doors that are visible.

On and off for almost its entire duration, the Sassanid Empire fought with the Roman/Byzantine Empire (first based in Rome, and then Constantinople). Earlier on our trip, we visited the site of one Sassanid victory, the city of Dura Europos, described in my post of 4.24. One ally of the Romans against the Sassanids was the city-state of Palmyra, described in my post of 5.2.

In AD 256, Sassanid Emperor Shapur I captured Roman Emperor Valerian following a battle at Edessa (in now Turkey). In this bas relief, Roman Emperors Philip the Arab (kneeling) and Valerian are shown defeated by Shapur. [Philip founded Philippopolis, now Shahba, Syria, one of the “dead cities” of the Hauran.] Emperor Valerian is said to have been held captive in the city of Bishapur until his death.

The Sassanid Empire ended with the Arab (Islamic) conquest of now Iran in the seventh century. While in the ninth and tenth centuries there were smaller dynasties, especially in the eastern part of now Iran, that at times claimed independence from the Islamic Caliph, first based in Damascus and then Baghdad, the next truly great empire to incorporate all of now Iran would be the Seljuk Turks’, itself followed by the coming of the Mongols.

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History of Iran: Achaemenids

Iranian history, to many of us in the West, is something of an unknown. We know that the civilization of Iran is an ancient one, and that various Persian Empires have contested the great powers of European history, but beyond that–nothing (or worse than nothing, in the case of the recent movie “300”). In a series of posts, I hope to acquaint you with some basic information about some of the dynasties that have controlled what is now Iran over the past 2500 years, with some context to show their relevance to world history.

While it would be ideal to proceed chronologically, I will instead be working in the order of sites we visit. Fortunately, we started our trip in Shiraz, nearby some of the greatest relics of the Achaemenid and Sassanid Empires, which come fairly early in Persian history, and it is those two periods I wish to cover in this and the next post.

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The Achaemenids came to power around 550 BC, when Cyrus the Great consolidated rule over now Iran. Cyrus was able to extend his empire as far east as Pakistan and Central Asia and as far west as Egypt and the Greek cities of Asia Minor (now Turkey). Soon after Cyrus’s reign was Darius the Great’s, who was in turn followed by his son Xerxes–all names familiar to Western readers as the foes of the Greeks. The Achaemenid Persian Empire was arguably the first great empire of the world, incorporating many nations in a wide stretch of the Near East.

Perhaps the greatest construction of the Achaemenid Persian Empire, and a great source of pride for Iranian people of today, was Persepolis, which lies approximately an hour from the modern city of Shiraz. Not a true city, but more a religious or festival complex, the site was constructed for the celebration of Nowruz, or the Persian New Year, which is still celebrated around the time of the Spring Equinox in Iran and Central Asia. [All of the pictures in this post are from Persepolis and nearby tombs.]

Gate of All Nations, Persepolis

A symbol of Nowruz–a lion attacking a bull

During the Nowruz celebrations, representatives of all of the nations within the Persian Empire would come to Persepolis to pay tribute to the Persian emperor. Our guide noted that the gifts brought were not necessarily the most valuable items from a given region but the items that were most locally distinctive. The procession of the nations is recorded in reliefs that have survived in near pristine condition.

Note how each delegation is led (on left), hand in hand, by a Mede or Persian–the two “home” nations of the Persian Empire.

The Lydian delegation, carrying bowls and vases

The Achaemenids were followers of Zoroastrianism, said by some to be the world’s first monotheistic religion. [Post on Zoroastrianism (including its survival in modern Iran) to come.] However, the Achaemenids permitted freedom of worship within the empire, and Persians proudly state that Cyrus “invented” human rights in a famous charter known as the Cyrus Cylinder. The Achaemenid rulers called themselves Kings of Kings, and recognized that they were rulers over a multiethnic and multilingual domain.

The faravahar, a symbol of Zoroastrianism

Inscriptions at Persepolis and other Achaemenid sites are in three languages, Elamite, Neo-Babylonian and Old Persian, all written in cuneiform.

The Greeks were among the Persians’ greatest foes, and the Achaemenids suffered famous defeats at Marathon in 490 BC and at Salamis in 480 BC. The Empire persisted, however, until the rise of Macedonian Alexander the Great, whose armies swept over Asia as far as now Pakistan. Alexander defeated the Persian Empire around 330 BC, commencing a period of Greek control of now Iran that lasted through around 250 BC. Persepolis was destroyed by a fire at the time of Alexander’s conquest, although it is not known whether this was deliberate (as revenge for Xerxes’ destruction of Athens) or accidental.

The acinaces, a dagger used by Persian soldiers. We were told that the length of these daggers was a great strategic disadvantage relative to the Greeks’ longer swords. Note at the bottom the row of twelve-petaled flowers, a symbol representing the twelve months of the year that is repeated everywhere in Persepolis.

Four of the Achaemenid emperors were buried near Persepolis, at a site now called Naqst-e Rostam. The tomb on the right belongs to Darius the Great.

Detail of carvings above tomb. Note the emperor above being supported by the 28 nations of the Persian Empire while paying respect toward the faravahar and another symbol of Zoroastrianism, the fire of the fire temple.

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Iran: First Impressions

Having been to Syria, and then spent a few days in the Gulf, coming to Iran was certainly set up as not too great a culture shock. After all, parts of Syria are fairly conservative, religiously, and men in the Gulf uniformly wear traditional (Arab) dress, compared to the modern western (though tieless) look of Iranian men, as evidenced by Iran’s president. A few thoughts captured in my first couple days on the ground, before they mature and grow stale:

– People here are just as friendly as Syrians, but speak a lot more English. This can be somewhat tricky because in some cases people are so eager to speak with us, and since they speak English it is harder to turn them down, even if we really do have something to do or some place to go (or can’t really understand their English efforts). We already have had one dinner invitation that we were not able to accept, and have felt compelled to participate in somewhat strange, rather long conversations. Oh, to have such problems!

– As you may have read, Americans are required to be guided in Iran, and we had been somewhat anxious about what this aspect of our Iran trip was going to be like. Everything is going great with Pars Tourist Agency so far. But we have to change guides tomorrow (our first guide, who was excellent, was unavailable for our whole time), and so we’ll see. The mandatory guide is not so cumbersome–we have evenings to ourselves and, being our own two-person group, can move at our own pace.

– The role of “traditional” dress is different here than in Syria because there are religious laws enforced against women–it is compulsory and shows. In Syria, not all women wore head scarves and those that did looked very much like they were doing so by choice (even if I imagine in many families it is expected of them). In Iran, cover is required by law (in the form of a headscarf or chador–Iranian women do not wear burkas like Arabs or Afghanis). We’ve seen saw a couple of women from Tehran take their scarves off when not in the presence of Iranian men, only to cover their head quickly when a man entered the room, and a lot of younger women here in liberal Shiraz wear their scarves in a manner that just barely satisfies the legal requirements (actually, likely does not), revealing half of their sometimes significant hairdo, with their highlights and occasionally heavy makeup.

– We had a conversation with a couple of young women studying at a university in Shiraz and took the opportunity to ask them some questions about women’s issues. When asked whether they liked or disliked the hejab (the Islamic dress code), one answered that it didn’t matter to her while the other was emphatic in her negative response, “No… I hate it.” The second answer came so quickly and firmly, it was as if she had been waiting a long time to tell exactly that to someone. When asked what they believe most Iranian women think about the law, the first woman thought that they favored the law while the second thought that they resented it. When asked whether they felt that they had a wide range of career opportunities (by law, a few are not open to women), the first answered with a yes, while the second thought that her choices were severely limited. It was astonishing how different their answers were, although they were friends. A man we spoke to took a somewhat intermediate point of view, defending the dress code based on the custom of the people (and implausibly justifying it on reduction of sex crimes and harassment, as if Iranian men were totally incapable of self-control), but taking the long-term perspective that things should and will change eventually.

The “liberal” woman we spoke to went on to ask us questions about the American system, and what it was like. She asked if we were happy with the laws in the U.S. We gave her a brief summary of the principles of the First Amendment and our personal views. She was somewhat surprised to hear that we were not religious at all, but very much approved of all of the personal liberties available in America. On dressing and living as she pleases, she said, “It is my dream.” One (perhaps obvious) conclusion: Whether dress is enforced socially or legally makes a big difference. In Syria, a woman (assuming she has some education and means) can choose to move to a big city and take off her veil. Here, refusing to comply with the hejab means that you will be a criminal, and potentially serve jail time with repeat offenses.

– Apostasy, or renouncing Islam, is a capital offense. You’re allowed to be Christian or Jewish or Zoroastrian, but if you are a Muslim, you must remain one on penalty of death. I imagine people don’t generally get executed for breaking this law (after all, unless you’re out to be a martyr it’s easy to pass as a faithful), but it is a stark reminder of what theocracy means.

– Finally, to show you that life goes on in Iran, despite the laws: We were walking innocently around the town of Shiraz, our first evening, and came upon a wholly unexpected experience (and honestly something we haven’t encountered anywhere else)–aggressive gay cruising. Crossing across a 50 meter stretch of a public square in the middle of town, we came across three different men, with each of whom we struck up conversations, before we knew exactly what was on their minds. The first had an extremely high feminine voice (although he was like 6’2″) and showed Derek a (straight) porn video that was on his mobile phone, suggesting that we walk over to his house. The second started with polite conversation and then moved quickly to repeatedly asking Derek the size of his, um, ****. Both were persistent and the latter quite explicit about what he wanted (although to be fair I guess we could have stopped it by just walking away–we were freaked out but also intensely curious at what was going on in the middle of an Iranian city since given as is infamous the penalty for gay sex in Iran is death). Passing through the same square on the way back from dinner, another man told us that he loved America and George Bush and said that George Bush was gay. All of this, happening on our first full night in Iran, was totally surreal. [A man we met elsewhere told us that a considerable percentage of people in Iran, especially the younger ones, participate in the usual vices (alcohol, nonmarital sex, pornography), albeit discreetly. Shiraz was after all famous for its wine, and people still make and consume it in private.]

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Getting an Iran Visa

Relations between the U.S. and Iran being what they are, it is not an easy matter for an American to get a tourist visa to Iran. But, surprisingly, it is not so difficult, either, as our experience has proved. For those of you who are interested in visiting to this center of world culture:

Having read everywhere that U.S. citizens can get a tourist visa only by going on a tour, we contacted the widely recommended Pars Tourist Agency in Shiraz, www.key2persia.com, which offers not only group tours but personalized tours, for each budget. After looking through their website and researching some guidebooks for Iran, we put together a 30 day itinerary for ourselves, and asked them for a quote. Pars communicates well in English over both email and phone and is reasonably responsive. First, they suggested that we change our itinerary to 25 days, as “maxing out” the 30-day visa period would not be viewed favorably by the foreign ministry in its review of our application (all visa approvals are handled through Tehran directly). For a personalized guided tour for two using public transportation, they quoted approximately $1500 per person for the 25 days, and about $1000 per person additional to have a private car. We asked them to proceed with the visa application.

The government approval was not quick. We applied for our visas in mid-January, hoping that the review process would be completed by the end of February, for us to pick up our visas in Hong Kong prior to the start of our trip, where we had discussed our trip with the friendly, helpful and English-fluent consul. No such luck. We next hoped that the application would be approved by mid-March, so that we could pick up our visas at the consulate in Hyderabad, India. Zero for two. Almost three months later, in early April, we were told that our visas had been approved by the foreign ministry and could be picked up at the Hong Kong consulate. Of course, by that time, we were in Syria. But fortunately they were able to change the pickup location to the Damascus embassy. Once the consul in Damascus had confirmed the approval with Tehran, he processed our visa on the same day. [Although our application took almost three months to get approved, we think that part of the delay may have been because we applied so far in advance of our travel date–if you allow a couple months, I bet approval from Tehran will arrive in time.]

We’re not in Iran yet, of course, and so we have no idea what our trip (or the services of Pars) will be like. But we’re so very excited that we get to go. If you too, fellow American, want to go to Iran–you can!